DBX 228 Dynamic Range Expander & Noise Reduction System for Removing SCRATCHES from Records, and expanding the Ups and downs. Makes digital from vinyl, and I loved it with my Thorns record player (that my son has now). Nice cosmetics with only a few minor scratches.Original Manual + Box etc (I. With handguns for every niche including competition pistols like the 1911 & 2011, concealed carry firearms, and you're new (EDC) Every Day Carry. MGW has a broad selection of handguns from manufacturers like Beretta, Browning, FN America, Glock, HK, Kimber, Sig Sauer, Springfield and more.
Here is a complete review and set-up of the dbx 286s Mic Pre-amp I use to podcast & record voiceovers for videos.','source':'Here is a complete review and set-up of the dbx 286s Mic Pre-amp I use to podcast & record voiceovers for videos.
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When I podcast or record voiceovers I use a Shure SM7B microphone into a Focusrite 18i8, but recently I wanted to get more gain and processing on it before going into Adobe Audition.
After some research I landed on the dbx 286s microphone pre-amp and processor.
In this video review I'm going to walk through what cables you need to use it, what each of the dials on it do, what I set all of them to, and any pro's and con's of this unit.
Watch the video above or on YouTube.
Items mentioned in this video:
Rear Panel Input/Output Options
Let's start on the back of the unit. First you have the AC power plug, but no on/off switch. So if you plug this in, it is always on.
Then there are three input and one output options.
Cables I Use:I use a regular XLR cable to go from my Shure SM7B to the mic input on my dbx 286s.
Vang Dbx 228 Plus
I then use a 3-Foot XLR Male to 1/4-Inch TRS Male 16AWG Cable to go from the line output jack on the dbx 286s to an XLR input on my Focusrite 18i8.
There is also a line input jack and an insert jack, that you'd use for an effects loop or a separate mic preamp. But remember, you only have one output on this device.
Mic Pre-amp
On the front, you'll want to move from left to right as you set this up, so let's start with the mic preamp section.
Gain/preamp:For the gain knob, talk into your microphone or play other input device like an guitar and watch the lights while you turn up the knob until you are consistently hitting the -10 level. You don't want to hit 0 and you definitely don't want to hit clip. For the Shure SM7B I have my gain set to 55.
48V power:If don't see any levels it is probably because you're using a condenser mic that needs phantom power, so turn it this on. For my dynamic mic, I don't need this, so I have it set to off.
80 hz bypass:I leave this off because it gives you less dynamic range, but if you're in a room with a hum below that frequency, experiment with turning it on.
Process Bypass:Next you have the process bypass button. If you turn this on it essentially disables the compressor, de-esser, enhancer, and gate that we're about to set up. You would really only use this for making comparison between processed and unprocessed settings or using this only as a dedicated pre-amp. We'll leave it off and move along.
Compressor
For compressor settings you have Drive and Density.
Drive:Drive determines the gain reduction signal level. Turning this clockwise will increase the input signal, which increases the amount of gain reduction. Turning it fully clockwise to off allows the compressor to pass all signals unattenuated. Basically bypassing the compressor.
Density:The density knob controls the release time of the compressor. At zero you get a slow release for smooth compression, which you'd use to gate out noise present behind vocals or acoustic instruments. At 10 you get a fast, or tight, release, which would be used on a kick or snare drum.
Gain reduction (db) Meter:The meter then shows you the true peak gain reduction in decibels. If the Red LED at the far left lights up, no further gain reduction is available.
De-Esser
Frequency:The frequency control sets the highpass frequency of the filter used in the de-esser to help remove the sssss sound when talking. 4 to 8 kilohertz is best for vocal processing.
Threshold:The threshold sets the sensitivity of the De-Esser as a percentage of the average input level. The LEDs light up for 1 dB and 6 dB when active.
Enhancer
LF Detail:The low frequency enhancer control applies a boost to 80 and 250 hertz without making the bass sound too muddy or boomy.
HF Detail:The high frequency enhancer works to add definition and crispness to vocals, guitars and other instruments. It's basically magic.
Expander/Gate
Dbx 228 Plus 122
Threshold (dB) Control:The threshold control determine when the expander and gate will fully open up and allow the input signal to pass through to output. Turning it fully clockwise turns it off. It have mine at about 30 db. So anything below 30 isn't passed through to the output.
The LED lights just show when it is on and off.
Expansion Ratio Control:The ratio controls the expansion and attenuation applied to the input signal once it is below the threshold we just set. Lower thresholds like 1:1 or 2:1 are better for slower material like vocals. The higher thresholds up to 10:1 are for very fast inputs, like percussion.
Output
Gain Control & Clip LED:Finally, you set the Output Gain control to the decibel volume level you want to output the signal at. This will really depend on what levels you're getting from your input at this point and how much you are going to boost them additionally in your audio interface or mixer that you're plugged the DBX 286s into next.
Final Thoughts
So you've made it through the whole device. I could have just told you where I set all my levels, but unless you're using the exact same equipment in a similar environment as me, your settings are going to need to be a little different.
That's why I wanted to share what each of the knobs, buttons, and LEDs all meant so you could tweak the device to your own needs.
To wrap up, I'm happy with the results I'm getting from this to boost the gain of my microphone plus add a simple compressor, gate, and de-esser.
It would be great if you could run multiple mics in and out using the same settings without having to buy one for each mic, but I understand the limitations of that.
And unless you're going to rack mount this with other audio gear, it is quite large to put on a desk or hide in a cabinet or drawer.
If you have questions about this set-up or the dbx 286s leave them in the comments on YouTube.
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*Note about parts / spares sales
* Our 'parts units', parts / spares and related reference information are primarily archived for the purpose of restoration / repair of 'Oak Tree Vintage' units first. Only if we do not have a 'viable' unit in yet, either already in process or in line to be processed, that may potentially need parts from a 'parts unit', will we release available parts for sale (even though they may appear as available for sale to the public). As many of you know, the restoration of a unit can be a long, time consuming process. We may 'lock up' parts that we may potentially need in the restoration of a unit (and not necessarily get it marked 'Hold' or 'Sold' on the site right away). Parts are priced according to the 'potential value' of the unit they can be applicable to (meaning the amount WE would be willing to pay for the part if that was all that was standing between us having a 'shelved unit' or a valuable / sellable unit), time to extract, their rarity & their condition to name a few criteria and likely will be completely unrelated to the original cost / price of a part when it was currently available from the manufacturer.
Parts Photos; We get a number of requests for 'photos' of a specific part. Unfortunately, in most cases that is not practical as the amount of time involved in posting that exceeds the value of the 'unique' part. We will sometimes post photos of less 'unique' parts, if there is a greater chance of them being available in multiple quantities, or on a more 'repeat' basis.
Parts, general condition / circuit board condition; Most of our parts are from 'salvage / donor' units. While we don't sell parts that are 'known' to be bad, occasionally parts will need further adjustment, cleaning, 'tweaking', or in the case of circuit boards, may need old, conductive glue / epoxy further cleaned, and some 'common' parts / components replaced due to 'green / black / furry' legs, or because those parts were marked as 'sold separately'. Some circuit boards may have 'tired' 'landing / solder pads' which can require 'jumpers'. Unless noted, circuit boards will be 'crack / split / break' free.
Parts pricing; Most of our parts price / value will be based on a few things. Firstly, we are in the restoration / refurb business, so we consider what we would be willing to pay for the part if we needed it (which again, is what the parts are listed for in the first place, 'our units'). Secondly, the rarity / value of the unit the part(s) fit. The 'Tuning Knob' for a receiver that has a final value of $350 will likely be much less than the 'Tuning Knob' for a unit with a final value of $1500 or more (a set of tires for a typical sedan will be $400 to $600. A set for a Lamborghini can be $16,000). Thirdly, the 'rarity' of the part. Forth, the 'condition' of the part. Fifth, the difficulty to extract the part, or success rate for extracting certain parts. Sixth; frankly it's a LOT of work and time to part out a unit. Most take 1 to 3 days of shop time to process. Not only the disassembly, but the 4-15 hours of pre-testing / servicing and just as time consuming can be the amount of time it takes to do all of the research we do and the info we list on many parts for cross-referrencing to other units that my use the same parts by scouring service manuals. On many circuit boards we will list every 'semi-conductor' which is also very time consuming. Lastly, every call or email for a part can require 20 minutes to sometimes over an hour of 'phone support', often (about 50% of the time) with me convincing the potential purchaser that they don't need the part I have to solve their problem.
Sorry to sound like a 'whiner' about selling parts, but 'time is money'.
Shipping: Shipping on most 'small' parts if typically via Postal first class or Postal Priority for both domestic (USA) and international orders. Larger parts such as transformers and drivers (speakers) are typically via FedEx gnd.
Some parts sales such as those for empty 'speaker cabinets', empty 'component cabinets / covers / bonnets' and 'speaker grills' and most are 'doomed' from the start. Due to their size and required packing supplies, the cost of 'packing for safe transit' and shipping are commonly 'disproportionate' to their cost, typically nearly equal to and sometimes greater than the cost of the part. Think about it. An empty speaker cabinet or stereo receiver case is essentially the same size as a complete one. Yes the weight will be less, but most of items that size are calculated on 'dimensional weight', not actual weight so are commonly just as expensive as shipping a 'complete unit'. Secondly empty component cabinets have to be packed to disallow breakage, typically requiring nearly as much packing materials as an entire unit. Speaker grills have to be 'sandwiched' between foam sheets in large, custom ordered boxes (all relatively expensive). It is what it is....
A non-response to an email of phone call / voice message request for a part that we don't show on one or our pages, or is already marked 'SOLD' will be typical. We simply don't have the time / man-power resources to respond to every query we get for items we don't show as avail. Most folks get that. Having said that, I / we may respond if we have information on a substitution or other useful information relating to it.
A non-response to an email of phone call / voice message request for a part (we may appear to have, but typically 'highlighted in Orange or Yellow'), likely means that we are still determining which parts we are going to need for the restoration or repair of one of our units. Again, the parts are first for the restoration of our units and secondarily for the public market. Since we list the parts available for ourselves, it is not much effort to modify the menu's for web publication, which in turn makes the reference information and occasionally the part available to the public. Frankly, publishing them to the web, in many instances, makes it easier for us to determine if we have the part for our needs as well. The alternative to all of the above would be to not offer them at all to the public, however most parts are available to the public for sale. Also, parts requests can occasionally take time for us to respond to. While we may have a part listed, and we like to keep the website 100% accurate, occasionally a part will be 'used by us' or 'previously sold' and we by oversight, and we did not get the web listing marked 'SOLD', or the part gets 'mis-placed' or 'lost' (laid down somewhere in the warehouse(s) and then it get's lost track of (that happens to our coffee cups all the time, then we find it months later with 'a good batch of 'penicillin' growing in it), so we like to 'lay eyes on it' prior to responding. Sometimes we just can't figure out which cabinet or drawer parts were assigned to (and we're working on a system for that one).
Some folks email / call and want us to respond either way / whether we have the part or not. Again, we simply do not have the time resources to do that. Our time must be utilized on the requests we can fulfill.
Sorry for all the excuses, but that's how the 'system' (or lack thereof) works.
And, if you don't see it, we likely don't have it.
Thank you for your understanding.
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20% off sale on salvage stereo parts.
See sales banners on parts pages for details
Most of these components are 'take-outs'from stereo gear that for various reasons we 'chopped' and unless otherwise noted are inserviceable / working condition / shape!
In the case of output transistors, they will be tested / checked prior to posting and once again prior to shipment, pots / switches will be 'cursory' cleaned, parts already missing / utilized from circuit board will be noted, transformers will be checked prior to posting. Filter capacitors will be tested / checked prior to posting and once again prior to shipment and 're-conditioned' / 're-formed' if necessary.
| MOST OF THE PARTS LISTED BELOW ARE FROM SALVAGE UNITS. | |||
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Unless specifically noted, we do not typically sell 'component level' parts such as resistors, diodes, transistors, semiconductors, ic's / integrated circuit chips, ceramic capacitors, led's, bulbs, lamps, belts, etc. We do commonly sell circuit boards / cards which will likely come with those parts attached. | |||
*When we say 'some parts 'MAY' also fit', that does NOT mean ALL the parts listed 'WILL' fit, and unless we show specific info that a particular part DOES 'cross-pollinate', do not infer that it does or will fit. Only careful research and comparisons, on YOUR part with service manuals, service bulletins, other comparable units, etc., MAY indicate a POSSIBLE substitution. If your situation is 'critical', do not base your decision on information found on this or any other page of this web site and do your own research. | |||
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(for 'PARTS';
as of 12/4/2020, for the next 60-90 days,
due to staffing / resource limitations, we are shifting focus away from most 'salvage / used / donor' parts requests at this time with *only a few exceptions, and will not be responding to calls or emails for those type of parts. We will still process orders for '**non-unique / SKU' parts / accessories that offer an 'on-line payment' option.)
*at our discretion, some requests my still get a response if time allows.
*'unique' would apply to most 'salvage' Hi-Fi / Stereo / Speaker, scooter, MI, Pro-audio parts. Parts that we normally stock and have a 'Buy It' option are not included in the above notice.
Before calling, PLEASE read the text in below.
BEFORE CALLING
(800) 806-4231 EXT #1
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OR
BEFORE EMAILING parts@oaktreevintage.com
(for 'PARTS';
as of 12/4/2020, for the next 60-90 days,
due to staffing / resource limitations, we are shifting focus away from most 'salvage / used / donor' parts requests at this time with *only a few exceptions, and will not be responding to calls or emails for those type of parts. We will still process orders for '**non-unique / SKU' parts / accessories that offer an 'on-line payment' option.)
*at our discretion, some requests my still get a response if time allows.
*'unique' would apply to most 'salvage' Hi-Fi / Stereo / Speaker, scooter, MI, Pro-audio parts. Parts that we normally stock and have a 'Buy It' option are not included in the above notice.
We DO NOT have your part unless the followingconditions are met:
A) You HAVE SEARCHED our page(s) and HAVE FOUND the part you are looking forSPECIFICALLY listed on one of our pages or you have solid information that it's a 'bona fide' substitution for your part (unless noted already, we won't have any further info along those lines)
AND
B) The part that you have found is NOT marked as SOLD or SOLD OUT.
If you do NOT see it listed after thoroughly searching the pertinent page (likely the page you landed on originally),
we do not have it,
nor do we know when it might come in,
nor do we maintain 'waiting lists' for parts,
nor do we know who might have it.
Sorry, but phone and email traffic for parts we don't have listed or for parts that are already marked 'SOLD' has become too consuming of time resources.
We try to keep these pages 99+% updated.
If you don't see the part you are looking for, simply check the web page periodically as we never know what will show up each day. Thanks!!!!!
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SUBJECTlines left empty, or with 'single word' text like;
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SPEAKER PARTS | STEREO / HI-FI ELECTRONIC PARTS | SELLING-TRADING-CONSIGNING | KEYBOARD PARTSIFAQ'S
CONDITION RATINGS | ORDERING / POLICIES |WARRANTIES / RETURNS | SHIPPING
RESTORATION PROCEDURES| REPAIRS | CONTACT PARTS
As much of the price charged for parts is for the 'time to extract' from it's donor unit, unless we send the 'wrong part', parts are NOT returnable.
Seeour 'Warranties / Returns' page via the link below for more details.
POLICIES, SPECIFICATIONS, AVAILABILITY, INFORMATIONAND PRICING SUBJECT TOCHANGE AT ANYTIME ANDWITHOUT PRIORNOTICE
and changes may not be posted to web immediately. Information such as Parts Substitution possibilities, 'Circa' dates, original values, etc. are to thebest of our knowledge. If you are critically concerned, you should do independentresearch on your own prior to ordering or utilizing this information in any way. Manufacturers also are known to changepart numbers, specs, circuit designs, specs etc within the same model.
